Enchanted River, Mountain Roads, and a $38 Splurge | Philippines by Motorbike

The shower was the first sign

A plastic tube taped to a wall. Exposed wiring running directly into it. A spritzer of cold water sharing a square foot with a live electrical current. I was already packed.

San Carlos had done its job. Rainy day. A roof. Same $20 price point five miles south with more restaurant options. You don't complain about the rain. You adapt.

The morning cleared fast. Twenty minutes south the road climbed and Cebu Island appeared across the strait. Blue water. Farms carved into hillsides. Little villages that looked the same as they probably did a hundred years ago. I pulled over to put on sunblock and stayed ten minutes longer than I needed to.

The road does that.

The Enchanted River

I'd seen it on Google Maps the night before. The name was enough.

The turn came up fast. Vendor stalls appeared out of nowhere. A woman handed me a water without being asked. Twenty pesos. The river itself was cold. Not refreshing cold. Cold cold. Crystal clear to the bottom. Maybe twenty feet down. Local kids launching off a cliff on the far bank. A man named Junil gave me the tour. I swam until I couldn't justify staying. Then stayed a little longer.

The battery door on the camera was broken. No underwater shots. You'll have to take my word for it.

It was worth it.

The Road Provides, Then Charges

I booked the room on the road. White Sand Inn. Manhuyud. Beachfront town on the southeastern coast. Thirty-eight dollars. A splurge by the standards of this trip.

The map said ninety minutes. It took three hours. The speed bumps on that side of the island are not painted. I found one with my front wheel.

Jimbo checked me in. His coworker asked if I was alone. Confirmed I was single. Told me her friend was also single but not present. I took the room with the window.

Hot water. A lighted mirror. AC. Sometimes thirty-eight dollars is exactly what the road orders.

I was asleep before dark.

Practical Notes

Getting there: Negros island. Mountain roads above Gahoolagan are in good shape with views worth the climb. Coastal roads heading southeast are rougher and longer than maps suggest. Budget extra time.

Enchanted River: free entry. Small vendor stalls outside. Water 20 pesos. No crowds. No tour groups. Bring a working camera.

White Sand Inn, Manhuyud: approximately $38 a night. AC, hot water, wifi, restaurant on site. Books through Booking.com. Window rooms face the street. Jimbo will warn you. Listen to him.

Food: local warungs along the route, 80 to 150 pesos a plate. Fish ball at the river for 20 pesos. Eat it.